Review: Mimosa

Mimosa is a simple, friendly wine bar that serves up some tremendously tasty bites alongside a solid wine selection and probably the best spanakopita for 1,000 miles.

In what was a wine-intensive bar before, the new French-Chinese owners have pared down the wine list (bottles from RMB168 to the sky) and added a menu of light Mediterranean dishes. They also did the smart thing and opened the large front window into a terrace. What is otherwise a standard space has phenomenal appeal when the clinks and chatter can float out into the Shanghai atmosphere. Much of the two-page menu is Greek tapas style, small dishes ranging from RMB38 to RMB78, and it’s here that Mimosa excels.

A platter of hummus, tzatziki, melitzanosalata and tapenade dips with fresh pita, crunchy carrots and peeled cucumbers (RMB88) are appetizing to a tee and whipped us into a feeding frenzy. Moreish, too, though a little on the dry side, were a plate of Greek-style meatballs (RMB38). They’re best brought to life with a glass of fruity Californian Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc (RMB58 per glass, RMB228 ofr the bottle). There are a handful of larger dishes and salads, but we kept it fresh with a well-balanced Nicoise salad (RMB48).

The true star of the show though is the greek spinach and filo pie (RMB48). Otherwise known as spanakopita, it comes with a story and you’ll need to ask for the full version. In short, the well-traveled owner learned the intricate technique for preparing the perfect filo pastry and has been perfecting it in Shanghai for a while (it’s also on sale at The Pantry). The result is heavenly, a rich spinach filling encased in filo excellence. It’s this dish that will bring us back to the terrace of Mimosa again and again.