Review: Pistacchio

Shanghai is starving for pockets of varied and reliable dining experiences. With new tenants in the area, Pistacchio finally puts Ferguson Lane on the map as a viable high-level neighborhood option.

Set in an impressively renovated space, their tasteful split-level dining room offers modern Italian cuisine at a price. Following a loosely five-course arrangement (the final being an extensive cheese selection), Pistacchio’s menu expresses a message of specialism. Cold cuts come from their curing station, desserts from the pastry room and the wines from their extensive and considered list (bottles from ¥340).

The real excitement comes in the form of their hand-made pasta. Roughly hewn ribbons of pappardelle with a fresh cherry tomato and mozzarella sauce (¥88) blow most of Shanghai’s Italian restaurants out of the water and make it a contender for best-in-town in this category.

But the pricing of some dishes indicate that rent must be paid somehow. Almost too thin but admittedly delicious are slices of sirloin in a caper and rocket dressed Beef Affettato (¥86) and an apparition of delicate baby spinach leaves with San Danielle prosciutto (¥108). This theme is similarly reflected in the mains, when a sliver of New Zealand king salmon appears alongside a weak mound of ratatouille (¥188). Better is a unique beef rossini (¥188), a succulent tournedo of tenderloin with foie gras, a red wine reduction and mashed potatoes.

Breaking into a tremendously doughy and piping hot soufflé (¥68) for our last course, we hope Pistacchio doesn’t soon deflate with quite as much spectacular drama.

On full display on the corner of Wukang, Pistacchio will be under a keen eye. After a few kinks in portion size and service are ironed out, we’re sure it can rise to the occasion.