Review: Bon App

There is a dimension to pancakes to which only the French have the secret access codes, and Bon App is a gateway to another realm of crêpe goodness.

Simply put, the crêpes here are best in town. We can’t quite decide whether it’s their flour or consistency or thickness or some other variable that defines pancake excellence. Whatever it is, the result is a delicious fold of savory galette wrapped around fresh and simple ingredients. Bon App’s offerings come in varieties including blue cheese, parma ham and walnuts (RMB48), minced beef with tomato and cheddar (RMB45) and our favourite, the traditional ‘Super Complete’ (RMB45), encompassing ham, cheese, egg, tomato and mushrooms. It’s Brittany’s answer to the all-day breakfast.

Simple salads (RMB40) and traditional open-top tartines (RMB40) comprise the other options on the menu. An authentic tarte flambée of sour cream, diced bacon and onion is essentially one step up from a toasted sandwich. It’s certainly tasty, but is only a worthy understudy to the main event.

Desserts expectedly comprise sweet pancakes with an assortment of fillings. The gem among the options is the apple and Camembert crêpe (RMB35), in which stewed apples and salty cheese combine under the sheets to create phenomenal flavor.

Whether this pancake joint needs to be concerned with being pigeon-holed is a moot point. Bon App, at the relatively lazy end of Wuding Lu, delivers an authentic gastronomic experience at a very tasty price. With an oversize bottle of dry cider (RMB140) and a street-side seat, this is a great casual option worth traveling to.