Brothers Kebab offers something that Shanghai has been missing for a while: late-night shawarma. They’re good enough to eat during the daytime too, which is not something anybody will ever admit about chuan'r or Family Mart’s chicken legs.
It’s almost a surprise that this place exists. First off, it's run by three friends ("brothers") from Denmark, that classic kebab-making nation. And of course, the city is already teeming with off-the-road spit grills on every street. Yet when it comes to a genuine doner, some well sourced meat, a splash of salad and a squirt of garlic sauce make all the difference.
Which is why Brothers are making a brisk trade and often selling out halfway through the afternoon. They offer both pita (¥28) and durum doner wraps (¥38) in either chicken or beef, a few sides and cups of homemade lemonade (¥6) from a little spot on a well trafficked area of Changle Lu. The doners are where the goodness is though. Stuffed with succulent meat and fresh salad, they’re very much a guilty pleasure.
The real test comes after a few drinks around the corner on Donghu Lu. Open until 4am, Brothers have set out their stall as the clubbers’ choice. With a kebab in hand their clients are easy to please but perhaps a handful to control.