Review: Husk

Husk is a place that puts Fengxian Lu on the map with progressive cuisine, superior service and tranquil atmosphere that combine to an almost superlative experience.

Up until now, Fengxian Lu has served as a rat-run alongside Nanjing Xi Lu. But Husk gives you a reason to actually stop on the way through.

Tucked into the newly developed McBain complex, Husk is the new restaurant of Charles Cabell and Michael Zhao, whom some may remember from Mesa & Manifesto, which used to be one of Julu Lu's most lauded hotspots.

Husk has a neatly laid out space with a comfortable bar at one end and sultry, low-lit dining at the other.

Appetizers are pushing RMB100 and mains RMB200. These are five-star prices at quite a back street trek from the Bund.

A trio of frankly gargantuan seared scallops (RMB88) served in their shells are the most tender we’ve eaten in Shanghai. The baked cauliflower adds a degree of flavor while allowing the scallop to shine.

An endive salad (RMB96) is literally dripping in deluxe ingredients. Sliced pear, roasted walnuts, shaved Parmesan and a honey cider dressing gives it a sweet edge, which by our standards is fair game but may not please the salad classists. A creamy yet zesty prawn cocktail (RMB35) is no less delicious but short on mouthfuls. These smaller bites don’t quite deliver the same punch as the other dishes.

Husk’s king prawns with ginger and chive (RMB188) are in an entirely different realm. They’re large, meaty and covered in a gently egged vinegar sauce to highlight their freshness.

The winner, though, is a sliced lamb rump (RMB168) served with a mint pesto. It combines attention to detail with powerful swathes of gamey meatiness. We’ll be dreaming of its medium-rare succulence until our wallets replenish for the next visit.