Review: Jardin de Riz 347

Situated in an alluring courtyard behind the busy corner of Wulumuqi Zhong Lu and Fuxing Xi Lu, 347 Jardin de Riz is adding another layer of consistency to one of Shanghai’s most eclectic streets.

With high rents and quick turnovers, it’s good to see that a restaurant with an eye on design has opened up in the former French Concession. Centered around a petite courtyard with an airy restaurant inside, the space feels like a considered adaptation of a lane house rather than a hasty conversion, which turned a good meal into an even better experience.

A plate of Iberian cold cuts (RMB198/140g) takes on an extra dimension when enjoyed under the trees.

The same goes for a fresh bowl of salmon and mango salad (RMB88) and a plate of delicate Iberian ham croquettes (RMB78). Neither were particularly groundbreaking (and slightly expensive) but with the tranquil setting and attentive service, they became much more rewarding.

Digging deeper into the pleasingly short menu, the food raises the bar in quality but drops in price. Jardin de Riz’s fried baby squid with wasabi mayonnaise (RMB68) was a heap of firm but not chewy squid rings coated in a delicate crispy batter, lending a fresh bite.

The real star of the evening, though, was their Segovian roasted suckling pig (RMB98). At a very reasonable price, they delivered a couple of large cuts of succulent pork along with some of the finest crackling we’ve ever tasted.

With a French name, a Spanish food menu and a Chinese courtyard, Jardin de Riz could easily be a recipe for disaster, but the concept is pulled off nicely.

This is probably not a place to bring a large group. It's better suited for more intimate occasions, where you can savor a moment of serenity over a couple of drinks and some well-executed dishes.